01EXPOSURE
Aperture
The aperture is the opening in the lens. A small f-number (f/3.5) means a wide opening: more light, shallow depth of field, soft background. A large f-number (f/11) means a small opening: less light, more of the scene in focus.
TIPThe kit lens is sharpest between f/4 and f/6. From around f/11, diffraction softens the image again – use f/22 only when you really need maximum depth of field.
G70 · f/3.5 (14 mm) – f/5.6 (42 mm) · smallest aperture f/22
02LENS
Focal length
Focal length sets the angle of view. Wide angle shows a lot of the surroundings and stresses closeness and depth. Telephoto brings things closer and seems to pull the background towards your subject.
TIPThink full frame: on the G70’s Micro Four Thirds sensor, 14–42 mm looks like 28–84 mm. 25 mm is roughly the classic 50 mm “normal” lens – perfect for practice.
G70 · markings 14 · 18 · 25 · 35 · 42 mm (FF 28–84 mm)
03LENS
Zoom
Standing still and zooming only crops tighter. Perspective changes when you move: close up at 14 mm or far away at 42 mm gives two completely different pictures of the same subject.
TIPZooming in makes the widest opening smaller. Choose your position and focal length first, then adjust shutter speed or ISO for exposure.
G70 · 14 → 42 mm · widest aperture f/3.5 → f/5.6
04EXPOSURE
ISO
ISO amplifies the sensor’s signal. Higher values make the image brighter but add visible noise and lose detail in bright and dark areas.
TIPStay at ISO 200 whenever you can. Auto ISO helps when the light changes quickly – on the G70 the automatic mode goes no higher than ISO 3200.
G70 · ISO 200–25600 · extended from 100 · Auto ISO up to 3200
05EXPOSURE
Shutter speed
Shutter speed decides how motion looks: fast speeds freeze it, slow speeds blur it – lovely for flowing water, light trails or panning shots.
TIPHandheld rule of thumb: 1/(2 × focal length), so about 1/100 s at 42 mm. The stabiliser buys you margin but won’t stop subject movement. Use the mechanical shutter for moving subjects.
G70 · mechanical 60 s – 1/4000 s · electronic 1 s – 1/16000 s
06COLOUR
White balance
White balance defines what counts as neutral. Set a low Kelvin value and the image turns cooler; a high value makes it warmer.
TIPFor a series, fix the white balance instead of AWB – otherwise colours drift from frame to frame. Shooting RAW gives you full freedom later in editing.
G70 · AWB · Daylight · Cloudy · Shade · Incandescent · Flash · 2500–10000 K
07DESIGN
Composition
Good pictures guide the eye. The rule of thirds, leading lines, a clear foreground and deliberate empty space give an image structure and calm.
TIPBefore you press the shutter, trace the edges: what pokes into the frame, what gets cut off? Keep the horizon straight – and when in doubt, take one step closer.
Exercise · shoot only at 25 mm for one week
08GENRE
Landscape
Lots of depth of field, a steady camera and good light. The time just after sunrise and before sunset gives soft, warm side light.
TIP14–18 mm, f/5.6 to f/8, ISO 200 and a tripod. Bring something interesting into the foreground – it adds depth. A polariser deepens the sky and cuts reflections.
G70 · 14 mm · f/8 · ISO 200 · AFS · 46 mm filter thread
09GENRE
Portrait
A calm background draws the eye to the face. You get there with a long focal length, a wide aperture and as much distance as possible between person and background.
TIP42 mm at f/5.6, close to the person, background far away. Focus on the nearest eye. Soft light – shade, clouds, a window – is kinder than harsh sun.
G70 · 42 mm (FF 84 mm) · f/5.6 · 1/250 s · AFS
10GENRE
Close-up
The kit lens isn’t a macro, but it gets surprisingly close. Leaves, textures or products work well when you use the shortest focusing distance.
TIPAt 42 mm and 0.3 m from the sensor you get the largest reproduction ratio. Depth of field gets very thin – use f/5.6 to f/8 and fine-tune focus manually.
G70 · minimum focus 0.2 m (14 mm) / 0.3 m (42 mm) · max. 0.17x · MF